Duck Duck Rabbit at Oscar W

The first thing that impressed me about Oscar W is how understated it was. I was told that it is the creme de la creme as far as restaurants are concerned and even Melbournites can't resist its charms and come to Echuca especially to savour its culinary delights.

As I bush-bashed down the Historical Port area however, I almost missed it. Walking through the tiny entrance, it felt as if I was transported to a different world, where the best view of the river surrounds an immense dining hall. High ceilings, dim lighting, walls filled with fine wine -  everything about the place boasts of class and taste. But the rustic Murray and the burnt gum leaves along the river bank makes it feel much more down to earth and accessible. It makes you feel special without being intimidating.

Dining alone, I was shown to a corner table by the window, with perfect view of the river and secluded from the rest of the dining crowd. The music is contemporary but not overpowering and the waiters are courteous and helpful. The special today is a 45 day aged angus beef steak. Mmmm sounds tempting, but since I had studied the menu in depth before I arrived, I had my eye on the double roasted duck. But first a drink! The mojito hit all the right notes especially generous with the amount of rum. But a little it sweeter would have been perfect!

The entree is certainly interesting. Rabbit rillettes, which is a first for me. It is rabbit meat, heavily salted and slow cooked in fat until tender to give a very soft consistency. It is eaten like a pate spread over crunchy bread. I have to admit, the bread was bordering on teeth-breaking, but the rillettes was surprisingly good, especially served with pickled onions.

Now for the main. Drumroll... twice cooked duck. I am a lover of duck, I can eat it plain boiled if I had to. Even if it is cooked very badly, I still love it. So I can't really go wrong here, but for me, cooking duck poorly just makes me sad. It is just simply such a waste! I am happy to report that from the word go, my heart sang. Golden brown to the eye, crispy to cut and the meat just melts on the tongue. The caramelised sauce and the side accompanied it perfectly. As you can see, a well-cooked duck makes me a happy little vegemite.

Half way through devouring the duck, I was happy to discover that my mentor is sitting at the next table, she generously invited me to join her guests. I am happy to report also that the 45 day aged angus is cooked to perfection also. It is accompanied by a whole-baked tomato, whose skin is so crispy and light that one the guests peeled and ate all the skin.

If you're a wine lover, then Oscar W's has another treat for you - their phenomenal wine list. Or should I say wine compendium. It contains at least 20 pages of all types of wine, liquer and spirits and of course cocktails.

Whomever Oscar W is or was, he has created something special in Echuca. It successfully combines the rustic charm of this historical port town and the quality and attention to detail of fine modern Australian dining. This is definitely something for a special occasion, and though the price is by no means cheap, you definitely leave with the satisfaction that it is money well spent.